How to paint Bolt Action Chindits

World War II miniatures have the bad habit of ending up us brown models on a brown table. My goal with this project was to create an army that popped and these Chindit miniatures provided me with just that chance. My aim was to use the hats, the backpacks and the bases as three points of bright color to ensure the army stood out during a game.

I used Citadel paints for this project with the exception of Pestilence Flesh, which is Badger Minitaire. My techniques consist of the classic “base, shade, layer” method for each area of the model and I focus on efficiency by not going back to a paint color that was previously used unless absolutely necessary.

Base Shade Layer
  • Castellan Green
  • Deathworld Forest
  • Zandri Dust
  • Leadbelcher
  • Abaddon Black
  • Buggman’sGlow
  • Rhinox Hide
  • Mournfang Brown
  • Athonian Camoshade
  • Agrax Earthshade
  • Nuln Oil
  • Reikland Fleshshade
  • Ushabti Bone
  • Screaming Skull
  • Dawnstone
  • Cadian Fleshtone
  • Kislev Flesh
  • Skrag Brown
  • Deathclaw Brown
  • Pestilence Flesh*

The model in the tutorial is from The Assult Group.

Start by undercoating the model black. I use Citadel Abaddon Black spray primer but any will do. I have also applied my basing material, Vallejo Dark Earth texture. Some folks like to base as a final step but for this scheme, the basing material needs to be primed as well.

And, of course, I forgot to get pictures of the first two steps, sorry about that!

1. Apply two base coats to the uniform in Castellan Green. I usually paint in batches of five models and by the time I’ve applied the basecoat to the fifth model, the first the ready for its’ second coat. Note, there is no reason to be delicate during this step as any non-uniform areas you get green on will be covered in later steps.

2. Wash the uniform with Athonian Camoshade.

3. Apply a highlight of Deathword Forest to the uniform. Your aim is apply the paint to the raised area of the uniform and leave the recesses dark to create contrast.

4. Add a final highlight of Pestilence Green to the uniform. This should only be applied to highest edges of the model. The picture is a bit washed out but you’ll be able to tell.

5. With the uniform done its time to move to the webbing, hat and backpack. Start with a basecoat of Karak Stone.

6. Give the cloth a good wash of Agrax Earthshade.

7. Go back and add a layer of Karak Stone but leave the recesses dark.

8. Highlight of Ushabti Bone and Screaming Skull. Just like with the uniform, hit the raised edges with Ushabti Bone and then to a lesser extent, Screaming Skull then boom, the hat, backpack and webbing are done!

9. The next few steps are for the skin. Start off with a basecoat of Bugmans Glow.

10. Once you have your basecoat, add a nice layer of Cadian Fleshtone to the entire area.

11. Now for an easy step, wash all of the skin with Reikland Fleshshade.

12. Once again, highlight the skin with  Cadian Fleshtone. This time start to focus on leaving the recesses dark.

13. To Finish off the skin, apply a final highlight of Kislev Flesh.

14. Now the base, the boots, the beard and the rifle. Start with a basecoat of Rhinox Hide.

15. Next up is to apply a quick highlight to the parts we just painted with Mournfang Brown.

16. The final few steps are to add a highlight of Skrag Brown to the beard and rifle, add a quick drybrush of Mournfang Brown to the base, wash the boots with Agrax Earthshade and the metal bits on the rifle with Leadbelcher. I went back and washed the metal bits with Nuln Oil to darken them up as well.

To base the model I use a mix of materials. After the basing material is painted I added a couple of Middenland Tufts to add a bit of height to the base. Once those were attached I added patches of Scorched Grass and Light Green Leaf Litter. With three different basing materials I was able to get a nice variety of color of texture on each base.

Once the basing material was dry and secure a gave the model a quick spray of Army Painter Anit-Shine Varnish to keep the basing material in place and to protect from chipping.

I have been wanting to create a step-by-step tutorial for one of my painting projects for a while now. As this is first one, it might be a bit rough and I hope to improve for the next one.

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